The Renewal 川游不息展

The Renewal 川游不息—— 綠川展二○一八

人文、藝術、生活將在此重新流動,
也將是旅人與市民繼續流連忘返的藉口⋯⋯
請打開身體細微感官,帶著城市旅人的心情,
以鳥的視野、河的旋律、花草的氣息、川流的質地、土地的豐味,把身體的感官重新找回來。

一條河川如城市一卷的文明史,承載了人與這座城市的生命情感。在5.67公里綠川河上,經歷了水源淨化、污水截流、環境營造等三大艱難工程,還給市民一條親近的河川與自在的空間,期望重新建構人與河川與城市的共棲關係。

只要好奇心還在,即便是重遊舊地,轉角處亦是柳暗花明又一村⋯⋯

Humanities, arts, and life will flow again, right here.

It will also be an excuse for travelers and citizens to continue to linger…

Open your body’s subtle senses, bring in the mood of a city traveler,

 

Rediscover senses with the vision of the bird, the melody of the river, the breath of flowers and plants, the texture of the lake, and the rich taste of the land.

A river is like the history of civilization in a city, which carries the life emotion of people and the city. The 5.67-kilometer Lvchuan River has gone through three difficult projects, including water purification, sewage interception, and environmental construction, giving back the citizens an intimate river and a comfortable space, hoping to rebuild the symbiotic relationship between the people, the river, and the city.

As long as curiosity is still there, you can find another village around the corner in every revisit…

策展人融合味覺、觸覺、 視覺、聽覺、嗅覺等五感印象策劃了一場關於河流的展覽;陳小曼與皓福(地坊)在此展中負責「味覺」的部分,以五個綠川週遭的點為創作起點,創作五道料理,再以拆字命名。

The curator curated an exhibition about rivers by integrating the five senses: taste, touch, vision, hearing, and smell. The surrounding locations are the starting point of creation, in which five dishes are created and named after breaking down the characters.

作為台中主要的電子材料、3C產品、音響設備等的主要集散地,電子街一直是台中絡繹不絕的商圈之一。除了提供台中地區的電子材料零件與音響玩家的樂園,在電子街旁的六十年老店汕頭牛肉劉,傳統炭爐煙燻四處瀰漫街角的煙霧與氣味,可能無法作為養生飲食的代言,卻無可否認是在地人心中的記憶美味。

以生牛肉作為這道餐點的主體,用台灣茶葉煙燻並灌入玻璃容器中,營造時代記憶,也為牛肉帶來轉化過的當代風味。玻璃透明感與場景裡的電鍍鋼板是對電子街的金屬質感與真空管音響迷的回應,上頭的帕瑪森片是西方風味引入的調和,也是對電路板形象投射的趣味。

Electronic Street, as the main distribution center for electronic materials, 3C products, audio equipment, etc., has always been one of the busiest business districts in Taichung. In addition to providing electronic material parts and audio players in the Taichung area, Shantou Beef Liu is a 60-year-old restaurant next to Electronic Street. The smoke and smell of traditional charcoal stoves permeating the street corner may not be the endorsement of a healthy diet but an undeniably delicious memory in the hearts of local people.

Using raw beef as the main component, it is smoked with Taiwanese tea leaves poured into glassware, creating a memory of the era and bringing a transformed contemporary flavor to the beef. The transparency of the glass and the electroplated steel plate in the scene echo the metal texture of the electronic street and respond to the fans of vacuum tube audio. The parmesan slices above the dish bring in Western flavors and represent an interesting projection of a circuit board.

台中市中山路於日治時期稱為「新盛橋通」,通向東南跨越綠川的橋即命名為新盛橋。新盛橋為日治初期市政建設之代表,即鐵路開通、公園建設及市區改正等市政建設之具體象徵,後改名為中山綠橋,沿用至今。做為城市建設發展的重要成果,新盛至今服務著往來的居民們。

交通、城市現代化發展始於日本時代,我們與日本文化的連結不言而喻。這一道餐點的概念轉化了台中特有的早餐「大麵羹」,歷史上與前朝日本、當代東南亞新移民混血,地理上從東北亞跨至東南亞,融合了沾麵、河粉表現形式;將台中人津津樂道的東泉辣醬做成辣醬紙,拆解了麵羹中的材料做堆疊,以這道料理本身作為連結,時間上、文化上、台中與京都、料理與享用、過去與未來、新與舊。

Zhongshan Road in Taichung City was called “Shin Sei Bashi Pass” during the Japanese colonial period, and the bridge leading to the southeast across the Green River was called Shin Sei Bashi. Shin Sei Bashi was a representation of municipal construction in the early days of Japanese occupation. It was a concrete symbol of municipal construction such as railway opening, park construction, and urban reconstruction. It was later renamed Zhongshan Green Bridge and is still in use today. As an important achievement of urban construction and development, Shin Sei has been in service for its residents until now.

The development of transportation and urban modernization began in the Japanese era, and Taiwan’s connection with Japanese culture is self-evident. The concept of this dish transforms Taichung’s specialty breakfast, “big noodle soup,” historically combining former dynasty Japanese and contemporary Southeast Asian new immigrants, geographically going from Northeast to Southeast Asia, and is presented in the form of tsukemen and pho. The Dongquan Chili Sauce that the Taichung people love is made into chili sauce paper, and the ingredients in the big noodle soup are disassembled and stacked in a pile, using the dish itself to connect time and culture, Taichung and Kyoto, cuisine and enjoyment, the past and the future, and the new and the old.

台中州廳為日治時期的官署建築,後沿用成為台中市政府所在地。2010年台中市政府遷址,留下部分部門,並於都市規劃中將台中州廳規劃為城市博物館。其廳舍由森山松之助設計,整體設計為仿法國馬賽的巴洛克風格,入口則設有「車寄」,這也是日治時期官署建築的重要特徵。

馬賽作為法國最古老與繼巴黎之後的第二大城,其建築形式也很大程度影響了西方的時代風格,從巴洛克到柯比意在戰後設計的馬賽公寓所開創的現代主義先河。日本明治維新時期產生了大量西化的技術與風格,也因此延續到當時台灣的建設上。

在此道料理中,我們試圖將風味、建築與歷史打散重組,將馬賽魚湯的元素與建築形式重現於盤中。魚湯中的蔬菜我們以醋漬紅蘿蔔與甜菜根轉化成魚鱗,也回應巴洛克式磚瓦堆疊的屋頂。其車寄則表現於原先湯品使用的香料如茴香、香菜製成的醬料,也是在這系列的創作中較著重裝飾的一道。

The Taichung Prefectural Hall was a government building during the Japanese colonial period and was later used as the location of the Taichung City Government. In 2010, the Taichung City Government relocated, left some departments, and planned the Taichung Prefectural Hall as a city museum in urban planning. Its halls were designed by Matsunosuke Moriyama, and the overall design imitated the Baroque style of Marseilles, France. The entrance was equipped with a “porte-cochère,” an important feature of the buildings for government officials during the Japanese colonial period.

As the oldest city in France and the second-largest city after Paris, Marseille’s architectural form has also greatly influenced the style of the Western era, from Baroque to modernism pioneered by the Marseille apartment designed by Le Corbusier after the war. During the Meiji Restoration in Japan, a large number of westernized techniques and styles were produced, which were also carried over to the construction of Taiwan at that time.

In this dish, the Slow Food Design (SFD) team tried to reorganize the flavor, architecture, and history, and reproduce the elements and architectural forms of the Marseilles fish soup on the plate. They transformed the vegetables in the fish soup into fish scales with vinegared carrots and beetroots, mimicking the baroque tiled roof. The porte-cochère was expressed in the sauces made of spices used in the original soup, such as fennel and coriander. This dish was more decoration-focused in this series of creations.

原名為「第一廣場」的東協廣場,由於靠近公車總站,舊時是年輕學子放課後的流行文化聚集地,後也成為外籍移工購物、聚餐的生活場所。這十三層樓的購物中心,在不同的時代中都扮演著台中市民活動重要的場域。

發想以東協廣場為題的菜色時,我們希望把隨著時間發生的解構、重建、融合,作為形式上表達的主題。將東南亞的醬料「峇拉煎」做成醬汁高湯,在盤中則是將台式經典小吃香菇肉焿重新組合為肉凍的形式,以柴魚高湯做成的凍中可以看見香菇、豬肉焿條、筍絲與木耳,旁邊取代香菜的提味是東南亞的香草,淋上峇拉煎高湯時,香菇肉焿因高溫而融化,台式與東南亞美味的對話交融成一碗名為時間的湯。

Formerly known as “First Square,” ASEAN Square was close to the bus terminal. It used to be a popular culture gathering place for young students after school, and later became a living place for foreign migrant workers to shop and have dinner. This thirteen-story shopping mall has played a significant role in Taichung’s civic activities in different eras.

When the team conceived the menu with the theme of ASEAN Square, they hoped to take the deconstruction, reconstruction, and fusion that happened over time as the theme of formal expression. The Southeast Asian sauce “Belacan” was made into a sauce stock. On the plate, the classic Taiwanese dish, “mushroom and pork thick soup,” was recombined into meat jelly. One could see shiitake mushrooms, pork strips, bamboo shoots, and fungus in the jelly made of bonito fish stock. Herbs from Southeast Asia on the side of the dish replaced the flavor of coriander. When pouring with the Belacan broth, the mushrooms-and-meat thick soup melted due to the high temperature. The delicious dialogue between Taiwan and Southeast Asia blended into a bowl of soup called “time.”

最後的39戶吊腳樓於2010年拆除之後,吊腳樓已是台中不復見的風景。吊腳樓是中國南方少數民族的建築形態,一般都是依山靠河、就勢而建,台中路二巷就時沿河而建的吊腳樓如其舊名「綠堤巷」的美稱,為半干欄式的二層以上木造建築,上層做為居住使用,下層結構空間則用以置物。

在此我們將「家」的象形字拆解,在象形中,豢養豬圈象徵穩定生活,「豕」豬隻上方加上屋頂「宀」便成了家。我們以紮實的糖燒脆皮豬為風味主體,上方以焦糖片呼應吊腳樓鐵皮屋頂,下方則襯炸過的筍絲與牛蒡象徵吊腳樓的竹製結構。轉化的河流則是台灣重要的經濟農產品鳳梨做為醬汁,給厚實的風味一道明亮提味。

After the last 39 stilted houses were demolished in 2010, they were no longer a sight in Taichung. “Stilted Houses” is an architectural form of ethnic minorities in southern China. Generally, it is built on mountains and rivers and according to the situation. The stilted houses along the river at 2nd Lane of Taichung Road are semi-vernacular wooden houses with two or more floors, with its beautiful old name, “Green Embankment Lane.” The upper floor is for living, and the lower structure space is for storage.

Here, the SFD team disassembled the pictogram of the Chinese character “家.” In the pictogram, keeping pigs at home symbolizes stability. “豕”  means pig, and adding a roof “宀” on top of it makes it “家,” which means home. The team used the sugar roasted crispy pork as the main flavor. The caramel slices on the top echoed the iron roof of the stilted houses, and the bottom was lined with fried bamboo shoots and burdock to symbolize the bamboo structure of the stilted houses. Because pineapple is an important economic agricultural product in Taiwan, river was represented with pineapple sauce, giving the thick flavour a bright finish.

台中車站於明治38年(1905年)設立,做為中台灣最大的車站,自此一直南北交通重要樞紐。明治44年都市建設持續發展,形塑了今日站前街道輪廓,台中車站也因大量增長的客運量而經過多次增建。做為中部交通運輸的重要動脈,台中車站也為城市帶來資訊與發展。

第二期台中車站建築的文藝復興風格,令人聯想起那個時代含蓄的浪漫。文藝復興起源地的義大利在當時誕生了自此成為代表作的甜點提拉米蘇,傳說眾說紛紜,卻不乏與愛情有關的浪漫想像;而跨越了時空、東方這廂在車站中送往迎來的戀人們,把握短暫時光到車站旁的冰店約會、含情脈脈的吉光片羽,是那個含蓄時代專屬的記憶。

我們將幸發亭的蜜豆冰穿越時空重組成了提拉米蘇,蜜豆做的夾餡與海綿蛋糕形成一個剖開來的「川」字,「Pick me up」的咖啡是撒在蛋糕上的粉,香蕉風味的煉乳是流動的思念,古往今來,愛情無論在什麼時空都是一樣的苦甜。

Taichung Station was established in Meiji 38 (1905) as the largest station in Central Taiwan and has been an important hub for north-south traffic ever since. In Meiji 44, urban construction continued to develop, shaping the outline of the street in front of the station today. Taichung Station has also undergone several expansions due to the large increase in passenger traffic. As an important artery of transportation in central China, Taichung Station also brings information and development to the city.

The Renaissance style of the second phase of Taichung Station reminds people of the implicit romance of that era. The dessert Tiramisu was born at that time in Italy, the birthplace of the Renaissance, and has since become a masterpiece. There are many legends and many romantic imaginations related to love. Across space and time, lovers at the train station made use of time to go to the ice cream shop for a date. It is the exclusive memory of that implicit era.

Through time and space, we reorganized the honey bean ice from Xin Fa Ting Shaved Ice into tiramisu. The filling made of honey bean and the sponge cake formed a cut-out Chinese character “川.” The coffee from Pick Me Up was sprinkled on the cake. The powder on top and the banana-flavored condensed milk were flowing thoughts and reminiscence. Throughout ages, in all time and space, love is always bittersweet.

 


策展人 / 許哲瑜、郭中元
參展人 / 林強、川顏團隊、良根、洪添賢、施真穎、徐至宏、陳小曼、皓福、游璨賓、黃湘、葉依柔、廖浩哲
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◆展期時間 107.02.03-03.11
◆展演地點 台中市役所藝術中心

展覽網頁:http://www.lyuchuan.com.tw
臉書專頁:www.facebook.com/LyuChuan2018
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指導機關|臺中市政府
主辦機關|臺中市政府水利局
執行單位 | 嶺東科技大學文化創意產業研發中心
設計單位 | 樸實創意、中間研究室

策展人 | 許哲瑜、郭中元
統籌企劃|秦安慧、詹雅棋
執行設計|黃煒仁
執行企劃|王子維
執行文案|林玲
展覽空間設計|蔡承叡
展覽影像紀錄|楊俊嶢、黃覺深
綠川品牌設計|林苓君、劉依婷
綠川網頁設計|賴柏霖
視覺化資訊圖表設計|吳鷗翔