Tokamachi Taipei Tablescape

“人類就在自然之中。”＿＿北川富朗

越後妻有大地藝術祭策展人北川富朗在《北川富朗大地藝術祭 — 越後妻有三年展的10種創新思維》中，提到藝術作為地方媒介的方法，結合人與環境，進行地方創生。大地藝術季自2000年舉辦，至今屆滿十年，在各方面上取得的成功有目共睹，不僅帶動地方經濟、也成地方結合藝術的典範。

地方的風土與人文，
是設計者們永遠的首要目標。

受到東京 mottomo 株式會社的委託，陳小曼食物設計團隊展開了十日町地方文化的餐會策劃；透過雲端協作採集，將當地的文化故事與食材結合，透過飲食經驗傳遞；除了應用當地特產，也將十日町的人文、建築、習俗與風土轉化成餐桌的地景，在台北的一隅打造兩千公里外的十日町經驗。

“Humanity is in Nature.” — Fram Kitagawa.

In Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennial Concept Book, curator of the Echigo-Tsumari Earth Art Field, Furo Kitagawa mentioned the method of using art as a local medium, combining people and the environment to carry out regional revitalization. The Echigo-Tsumari Earth Art Field has been held for ten years since 2000, and its success in all aspects is needless to say. It has not only driven the local economy but also become a role model for local integration of art.

Regional terroir and humanity…
are always the primary goals for designers.

Entrusted by Tokyo Mottomo Co., Ltd., the Slow Food Design team planned a banquet for the local culture of Tokamachi. With virtual collaborative collections, local cultural stories and ingredients were combined and passed through food experiences. In addition to the application of local specialties, the humanities, architecture, customs, and terroir of Tokamachi were transformed into the landscape of the dining table, creating a Tokamachi experience 2,000 kilometers away in a corner of Taipei.

川霧食卓: Tokamachi Taipei Tablescape

 

Tablescape

十日町市（Tokamachi）位於日本新潟縣南部，市中心流過日本第一長的河川——信濃川；冬季積雪可達2-3米，是日本少見的豪雪地區。在此地區的歷史、人文、建築、食物，都與此極端氣候有密切的關係。

場地裡，我們以白色、銀色、灰色填寫畫面，試圖描繪雪地風景。以十日町的等高線地形為基礎做出 tablescape，中間的凹處為信濃川流經地形，並將枯枝與石頭安排在餐桌地景中，也埋藏與懸吊不同的餐序中的食物元素（味噌球、晚摘紅蘿蔔）。餐具、道具皆為透明或白色，在餐桌地景中，唯一感受得顏色是食物與人。

Tokamachi is located in the southern part of Niigata Prefecture, Japan. The city center flows through the Shinano River, the longest river in Japan. In winter, snow can reach 2-3 meters, which is a rare heavy snow area in Japan. The history, culture, architecture, and food in this area are closely related to this extreme climate.

Slow Food Design (SFD) team tries to fill the set with white, silver, and, grey to depict the snowy landscape. The tablescape is made based on the contour topography of Tokamachi. The hollow in the middle is the terrain where the Shinano River flows; the dead branches and stones are arranged in the table landscape; the food elements (miso balls and carrots) are buried and hung in different meal sequences. In the table setting, the tableware and props are all transparent or white. The only colors that can be felt are food and people.

Snow Fridge 雪地蔬菜凍
當季蔬果｜山藥｜醬油、味醂、清酒｜日本圓茄
Seasonal Vegetables and Fruits｜Yam｜Soy Sauce, Mirin, Sake｜Japanese Eggplant

「雪室」是日本東北地方號稱雪國的居民，使用智慧和創造力製成的“天然冰箱”。 過去冬季積雪時，家庭中廣泛使用稻草覆蓋至雪上加強保冷效果，古書中記載這樣的天然冰箱保存法被廣泛使用直到1955年代電冰箱普及為止。「雪室」除了可以儲存蔬菜，還可以保護蔬菜和食品在冬天不結冰，在夏天時能夠以販售冰和雪來維生。

第一道開胃菜以「雪的冰箱」展開極地氣候保存食物的探索。並用烤過的日本圓茄做成雪花，以雪景開場。

“Snow Room” is a “natural refrigerator” made with wisdom and creativity by the residents of the northeastern region of Japan, known as the Snow Country. In the past, when the snow was accumulating in winter, straw was widely used in households to cover the snow to enhance the cooling effect. The natural refrigerator preservation method, recorded in ancient books, was widely used until the popularization of refrigerators in the 1955s. In addition to storing vegetables, the “Snow Room” could also protect vegetables and food from freezing in winter and people could survive by selling ice and snow in summer.

The first appetizer begins an exploration of food preservation in polar climates with the “Snow Fridge.” Snowflakes were made with roasted Japanese round eggplants, opening the dinner show with a snow scene.

Hegi-lasagna 越後海藻千層麵
昆布海藻蕎麥麵｜蛋黃｜帕瑪森起士｜培根
Kombu Seaweed Soba｜Eggs｜Parmesan Cheese｜Bacon

越後（新潟），自古以來就生產高級亞麻織物「越後布」。為了漂白紡織的線，「越後布」和「越後縮」必須使用「雪曬」的方式，江戶時代之後，「越後布」改良成為更高級的「越後縮」。十日町地區因此成為了一個貿易中心。

第二道將雪曬的場景重現，用海藻蕎麥的原料做成千層麵，呈現十日町版的培根蛋義麵。也因當地名物海藻蕎麥麵的起因是商人將原本使用在織布中的海藻加入了蕎麥麵而來，以這料理連結越後縮文化與食物的關係。

Echigo (Niigata) has been producing high-quality linen fabric “Echigo nuno” since ancient times. To bleach textile threads, “Echigo nuno” and “Echigo chijimi” must be used in the “snow drying” method. After the Edo period, “Echigo nuno” was improved into a more advanced “Echigo chijimi.” The Tokamachi area thus became a trading center.

The second course reproduces the scene of snow-drying, and uses the raw materials of seaweed and buckwheat to make lasagna, presenting the Tokamachi version of bacon and egg noodles. The locally famous seaweed soba is which merchants added the seaweed originally used in weaving to the soba, and connects the relationship between Echigo culture and food.

River rice bread 川霧米麵包
黃味噌奶油｜十日町米麵包
Yellow Miso Cream｜Tokamachi Rice Bread

十日町市四面環山，溫度相差很大，下雨後或在突然的寒冷天氣中經常出現「川霧」。因為川霧能夠讓保護稻田躲過夏日酷曬，當地人說稻米能夠如此香甜都是拜「川霧」所賜。

「船枻」原指日式老船擺放船舵的位置。因應氣候不同在多雪多雨的地區，建築效仿船隻製造有了把樑加長到屋外撐住屋頂加深屋簷的做法。在十日町則隨處可見這樣的建築形式。

我們將十日町産魚沼越光米做成米麵包，放在有著「船枻」的船隻上，將船至於餐桌地景中凹處（信濃川流經地形）；也述說此處因貿易而發展起的歷史。船隻下的乾冰則營造川霧氣氛，並用當地味噌做成奶油。

Tokamachi City is surrounded by mountains where the temperature varies greatly. “River fog” often appears after rain or in sudden cold weather. The locals said that it’s the “river fog” that made the rice so sweet because it can protect the rice fields from the harsh summer sun.

In response to different climates, architectures imitated designs of old Japanese boats, adding a platform to the rudder. In snowy and rainy areas, buildings add extending beams outside the house to support the roof and deepen the eaves. Such architectural designs can be seen everywhere in Tokamachi.

The SFD team makes rice bread from Tokamachi Uonuma Koshihikari rice and puts it on a boat with an extended platform. They placed the boat in a recess of the table landscape, imitating the terrain which Shinano River flows through and representing its history of development through trade. The dry ice under the boat creates a misty atmosphere to mimic “river fog,” and butter was made from local miso.

Miso ball 空中的味噌湯
高長赤味噌｜鮭魚｜毛豆｜綠大根｜翡翠娃娃菜
Takachochi Miso｜Salmon｜Edamame

自古以來在本地備受喜愛的高長紅味增由大豆麹製成，口感濃郁豐富。高長味噌醸造場利用肥沃土地上種植的大豆和多雪地區特有的氣候，使用自古以來一直沒有改變的傳統「杉樽蔵」製法釀製味噌。普通的味噌通常是用米麹釀製而的，而高長味噌是用大豆麹製成。使用米麹的味噌通常甜度較高，而用大豆麹製成的味噌通常豐味比較濃郁。

這一道湯品我們將味噌湯拆解成兩部分，盤中的炙燒鮭魚、娃娃菜、海帶，吃一半之後，請與會者從樹上摘下以粽葉包裹的懸吊味噌球，放在盤中，並以高溫的高湯將味噌沖散，成為味噌湯品。

Kocho red miso, which has been loved locally since ancient times, is made from soybean koji that has a rich taste. The Takacho Miso Brewing Plant uses soybeans grown on fertile soil and the climate unique to snowy regions to brew miso using the traditional aging method that has not changed since ancient times. Regular miso is usually brewed with rice koji, while Kocho miso is made with soybean koji. Miso made with rice koji is usually sweeter and with soybean koji is usually richer.

For this soup, the team disassembles the miso soup into two parts. After eating half of the grilled salmon, baby vegetables, and kelp, participants are asked to pick off the hanging miso balls wrapped in zong leaves from the tree and put them on the plate. On the plate, the miso disperses in a high-temperature stock and becomes miso soup.

Kiyotsu vally 米麴醃漬豬肉山
紅酒燉豬頰｜米麴醬汁｜煙燻舞菇、杏鮑菇｜漬蓮藕
Braised Pork Cheeks in Red Wine｜Rice Koji Sauce｜Smoked Maitake Mushrooms, King Oyster Mushrooms｜Pickled Lotus Roots

作為日本三大溪谷之一的清津峽溪谷。雖在1988年因落石事故使步道封閉，但在1996年又設置了新的隧道步道。2018年4月，其步道由中國藝術家集團：MAD ARCHITECTS經手設計後，蛻變為一座藝術迴廊而重新開幕。也成為大地藝術季的知名景點。

主菜以當地盛產的米麴醃漬台灣黑豬肉與煙燻野菇、漬野菜抽象表現清津峽地景。

Kiyotsu Gorge is one of the three major valleys in Japan. Although the trail was closed due to a rockfall in 1988, a new tunnel trail was installed in 1996. In April 2018, after its walkway was designed by a Chinese artist group: MAD ARCHITECTS, it transformed into an art corridor and reopened. It has also become a well-known attraction in the Land Art Season.

The main dish uses the rich local rice koji pickled Taiwanese black pork, smoked wild mushrooms, and pickled wild vegetables to abstractly express the landscape of the Kiyotsu Gorge.

 

Throwing orange 丟丈夫
優格泡沫｜煙燻橘汁沙冰｜抹茶凍
Yogurt Foam｜Smoked Orange Smoothie｜Matcha Jelly

十日町松之山溫泉有個特殊「丟女婿」的文化，至今已流傳300多年，每年1月15日當地村民就會把娶走本村姑娘的女婿從山上往下扔，用這種方式告誡外來女婿們「乖」一點。據傳聞起初是當地村民不滿外地男子把本村的姑娘娶走，故意藉著警告的活動來嚇阻這些外地人要好好善待自己的妻子。

以這詼諧的典故為靈感，結合日本新年烤橘子習俗將煙燻過的橘子做成沙冰、與抹茶凍作為清口甜點。

Tokamachi Matsunoyama Hot Spring has a special culture of “throwing son-in-law,” which has been circulating for more than 300 years. Every year on January 15th, the local villagers will throw the son-in-law who has married a girl from the village down the mountain, in this way to warn the foreign son-in-law to behave well. According to rumors, the local villagers were initially dissatisfied with foreign men for marrying girls from their village and deliberately used warning activities to deter these foreigners from treating their wives well.

Inspired by this witty allusion, combined with the Japanese New Year’s custom of roasting oranges, smoked oranges are made into smoothies and matcha jelly as a refreshing dessert.

Farmer’s sweet accident 健忘的農夫
香料紅蘿蔔蛋糕｜山蘿蔔葉冰淇淋｜貝比紅蘿蔔
Spiced Carrot Cake｜Cheron Leaf Ice Cream｜Baby Carrots

雪中胡蘿蔔來由其實是一個偶然，農民在秋天忘了採摘，不小心讓胡蘿蔔們跟著冬天雪融時一起收穫。十日町市所種植的胡蘿蔔在海拔300m以上的地方種植，高山溫差大，蔬菜會積聚本應在呼吸時消耗的營養素，導致甜份提高。晚摘的紅蘿蔔，也因此成了此地區的名產。

最後一道甜點，我們將紅蘿蔔蛋糕「預埋」在餐桌地景之中請參與者自行「晚摘」，與盤中的山蘿蔔冰淇淋「三吃」。

The origin of “carrots in the snow” is actually an accident. The farmers forgot to pick them in the autumn, and accidentally let the carrots harvest together with the winter snow when the snow melted. Carrots grown in Tokamachi City are grown at an altitude of more than 300 meters. The temperature difference in the mountains is large, and the vegetables will accumulate nutrients that should be consumed during breathing, resulting in intense sweetness. Carrots picked late have also become a famous product in this area.

For the last dessert, the SFD team “pre-buries” the carrot cake in the table setting and asks the participants to “pick it late” and “eat it in three ways” with the chervil ice cream on the plate.

Wormwood sake cocktail 艾草糰子調酒
艾草｜黑糖泡沫｜紅豆｜天神囃子辛口清酒
Wormwood｜Brown Sugar Foam｜Red Bean｜天神囃子辛口 sake

新潟的經典和菓子「艾草糰子」使用新鮮艾草的製程麵皮，包上光滑的紅豆沙，並用新鮮竹葉包住。由於竹草葉具有殺菌作用，據說在戰國時期就以便攜式的保存食品誕生。

Niigata’s classic wagashi “wormwood rice ball” uses the dough made of fresh wormwood, wrapped in smooth red bean paste, and wrapped with fresh bamboo leaves. Due to the bactericidal effect of bamboo grass leaves, it was used as a portable preserved food during the Warring States Period.

在自古以來就以酒著稱的新潟縣有據說是日本最美味的“米”和純淨的“水”，是一個非常適合釀造清酒的地方，我們將艾草糰子風味轉化成調酒，以天神囃子的清酒為基底，加入艾草浸泡、調和紅豆茶，最後以黑糖泡沫營造甜點風味。

Niigata Prefecture, which has been known for its sake since ancient times, has “rice” and pure “water” said to be the most delicious in Japan. It is a very suitable place for sake brewing. The Slow Food Design team transformed flavors of wormwood rice ball into the cocktail. The base is made of sake, infused with wormwood, blended with red bean tea, and lastly, creating a dessert flavor with brown sugar foam.

 

Organizer / 一般社団法人十日町市観光協会
Overall coordination / 株式会社 mottomo
Food design / 陳小曼食物設計
Chef team / Theodore Hsiao, May Liou
Local PR cooperation / Annie Ann
Venue / Wutz
Special thanks to/ September cafe, Room by Le Kief, Salon Flowers, J Li Lab, Wen Chang, Hoser Huang, Carey