Reading Dining Project
受勤美 真書軒 邀請，陳小曼團隊以「時間」為主軸發想，將閱讀與感官連結，以五感閱讀時間。
Invited by The Jen Library, Slow Food Design (SFD) team used the concept of “time” to connect reading with senses, using the five senses to read time.
從閱讀到餐桌 From Reading to Table
對閱讀與餐桌的直接聯想，除了食譜、飲食文化、飲食指南，單向的書寫或實踐之外，還有什麽可能性可以被想像？我們這次試圖將閱讀經驗轉換為飲食經驗，透過食物設計，將閱讀時的理解，轉換成感官的體驗。從閱讀到餐桌，再回到閱讀，我們試圖連結感受與理解，透過時間的主題，去探討閱讀的本質，與更多可能的表現形式。
Apart from recipes, food culture, dietary guidelines, one-way writing or practice, what other possibilities can be imagined for the direct association between reading and dining? This time, we tried to convert the reading experience into the dining experience. Through the design of food, the comprehension during reading was transformed into a sensory experience. From reading to table and back to reading, the SFD team tried to connect feelings and understandings, and explore the nature of reading and more possible forms of expression through the theme of time.
「時間」”Time”
作為我們所理解的世界中一切事物的基礎，「時間」一直是所有專業領域中必要面對與討論的命題與本質。對時間的感知與理解，一直是我們存在的根本。討論的方法不必然要複雜，內容也不盡然龐大，我們從「物理的時間」、「地理的時間」、「文化的時間」三個方面，透過食物的演繹，進行閱讀經驗的轉換，穿越過去（記憶）與未來（想像）。
As the foundation of everything in the world we understand, “time” has always been a proposition and essence that must be confronted and discussed in all professional fields. The perception and understanding of time have always been the foundation of our existence. The method of discussion does not have to be complicated, and the content does not have to be massive. Through the interpretation of food, we transformed the reading experience and travelled through the past (memory) and future (imagination) through the three aspects: “physical time,” “geographical time,” and “cultural time.”
發酵與醃漬 Fermentation & Pickling
以時間作為食材的料理法，非發酵與醃漬莫屬。不同的方法，也陳述了不同的文化看待時間的方式。韓國的泡菜、法國的酒、義大利的麵包、西班牙的火腿、日本的味噌、台灣的紅槽等等。透過不同的發酵物與醃漬物感受時間，我們可以試著了解其在食物的製程裡扮演的角色。陳小曼團隊以《發酵聖經》為文本，擷取靈感加以轉化成創作概念，文本為縱軸、地理為緯度，打造六道餐食體驗。
The cooking methods that use time as an ingredient are no doubt fermenting and pickling. The different approaches also state how different cultures view time: Korean kimchi, French wine, Italian bread, Spanish ham, Japanese miso, Taiwanese red trough, etc. By feeling time through different ferments and pickles, we can try to understand the role they play in the process of food-making. The SFD team took the “Fermentation Bible” as an inspiration and transformed it into a creative concept. The text is the vertical axis and the geography is the latitude to create a six-course meal experience.
Welcome drink: Sandorkraut
卡茲馬不停蹄的在北美各地開設工作坊講授發酵相關的知識與技術，被譽為「發酵的復興主義者」。但他都自稱「山鐸酸菜」。
Katz has been opening workshops all over North America to teach fermentation-related knowledge and skills. He is known as the “Fermentation Revivalist,” but calls himself “Sandorkraut”.
p.09
人類學家麥戈文從有九千年歷史的陶片上鑑定出酒精殘留，他指出：「酒的地位無與倫比又具有普世的魅力，可說是在生物上、社會上和宗教上都有其必要，因此若想理解人類這個物種及其文化，酒十分重要。人類與發酵飲料的親密關係已經有數百萬年之久，兩者之間的關係大大影響了今天的人類。」
Anthropologist McGovern, who identified alcohol residues on 9,000-year-old pottery shards, pointed out: “that man is Homo imbibens, driven by biological, social, and religious imperatives to consume alcohol, and that this relationship with alcohol is a key to ‘understanding the development of our species and its cultures.”
p.10
麥戈文教授在中國賈湖遺址新石器時代聚落所鑑定出來的酒，是以米、蜂蜜和水果混合而成。
The wine identified by Professor McGovern at the Neolithic settlement at the Jiahu site in China is a mixture of rice, honey and fruit.
Starter: Kaut-chi in canoa
p.88
「酸泡菜」這個詞是我自創的，結合了德國蔬菜（Sauerkraut）和韓式泡菜（Kimchi）這兩個字。英語本身並沒有專門稱呼發酵蔬菜的詞彙，如果用「醃漬」（pickled）形容發酵蔬菜並不精確，因為醃漬所涵蓋的範圍遠超過發酵。
I invented the term, “Kaut-chi,” by combining the German”sauerkraut” and Korean “kimchi.” English itself does not have a specific term for fermented vegetables. It is not accurate to use “pickled” to describe fermented vegetables, because pickled covers far more than fermentation.
p.89
「切丁、鹽漬、裝罐、等待。」
“Dice, salt, can, and wait.”
p.68
木舟形容器是一種挖空的原木，側向一邊，狀似木舟（獨木舟Canoe這個字就是由木舟Canoa衍生而來）。民族植物學家李辛格就曾指出：「名為『木舟』的中空原木發酵容器總是放在神殿的東翼。」
A canoe-shaped vessel is a hollowed-out log, sideways, that resembles a canoe (the word “canoe” is derived from “canoa”). Ethnobotanist 李辛格 once pointed out: “The hollow log fermentation vessel called ‘canoa’ is always placed in the east wing of the temple.”
Starter: bitter Pickle egg
p.104
「我的雙親是在俄羅斯出生長大的，我父親告訴我，二次大戰後，他（當時8歲）和他的家人有一整年幾乎是靠著酸菜和馬鈴薯才活了下來。當時實在沒有其他的食物可吃。而他現在已經70歲了，仍然非常健康（而且仍舊愛吃酸菜）」印第安納波利斯市的白立（Lorissa Byely）寫道。
“My parents were born and grew up in Russia. I learned from my dad that after World War II, he (age 8) and his family literally survived on sauerkraut and potatoes for a year. There really was no other food and he is still healthy today at 70 (and still loves sauerkraut),” wrote Lorissa Byely from Indianapolis.
p.88
「有些比較苦的葉子發酵後，苦味會變得比較溫和。」塔倫提諾是一位義大利發酵實驗家，現居於比利時。她進一步指出：「非常苦的葉子通常在發酵缸裡會釋出各種馨香，彷彿是由苦味帶出了更多細微的成分。」
“Some more bitter leaves can turn mild through fermentation.” Tarantino is an Italian fermentation experimenter who lives in Belgium. She further pointed out, “very bitter leaves generally release a bouquet of flavors in the fermenting crock, as if the bitterness opens to more subtle components.”
Primo: Early summer ceviche
p.126
日本作家久司撰寫了數本養生食譜，她引用過一句日本諺語：「起身旅行前吃顆梅干，你的旅途一路平安。」梅子都是在青嫩之時就採收，不會等到完全成熟。
The Japanese writer Michio Kushi has written several health recipes. He quoted a Japanese proverb: “Eat a dry plum before travel, your journey will be safe.”
p.115
香料可以抑制黴菌，還可以幫助細菌生長。
用『醃漬香料』讓誠品的風味變得很南方。…初夏的葡萄嫩葉可用鹵水醃漬後填入調味米等餡料，做成多爾曼、薩爾曼等美味小菜。
Spices inhibit mold and help bacteria grow.
Use “pickled spice” to make the flavor southern. …The tender leaves of grapes in early summer can be marinated in brine and then filled with seasoning rice and other fillings to make delicious side dishes such as 多爾曼、薩爾曼.
Secondi: Alice’s Taco
p.148
發酵穀物和塊莖在世界各地發展出令人難以置信的獨特風格。然而，綜觀各文化，儘管發酵方式不同，食物準備的場所也不同，卻仍出現一些共通模式。
Fermented grains and tubers have developed incredibly unique styles around the world. However, across cultures, some common patterns emerge despite differences in fermentation methods and where food is prepared.
p.115
有種穀物在個文化中發展千變萬化的發酵方式和典型，令人印象深刻。那就是玉蜀黍（Corn），大多數英語世界則稱為玉米（maize）。玉蜀黍原生於墨西哥，在當地被發酵成無數食物與飲料，且多數情況下都會經過鹼法處理。
1974年代喜劇《愛麗絲》（Alice）裡弗洛對梅爾所說的粗話：「親我的碎玉米粥吧！」
There is a kind of grain that has developed into a variety of fermentation patterns in each culture – “corn,” which most of the English-speaking world calls, “maize.” Maize is native to Mexico, where it is fermented into countless kinds of food and beverages and is usually alkali-processed.
1974’s comedy “Alice” Flo’s foul words to Mel: “Kiss my grits!”
Dessert: miso frozen yogurt
p.244
夏利夫和青柳昭子在另一部史詩般的壯闊做聘鐘這麼談及味噌歷史：「味噌在風味與色澤、質地與香氣上的範疇，致劭也都與世界上高級的葡萄酒和乳酪一樣變化多端。」
William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi talked about the history of miso in an epic piece: “Available in a range of flavors, colors, textures, and aromas as varied as that of the world’s fine cheeses and wines.”
p.248
夏利夫不斷引述佛教中道的概念，即不要懷抱極端或是武斷的觀點，要在不同面向上尋找價值，追求兼容並蓄的包容度，而不是非此即彼的排他性。
這也讓我再次見識到，他如何實踐中道這種非教條主義的價值觀，並對看似矛盾的事物感到相當自在。
Shurtleff constantly cites the Buddhist concept of the Middle Way: not to embrace extreme or arbitrary views, but to seek value in different aspects, and to pursue inclusiveness rather than exclusivity.
It also gave me another glimpse of how he practices the non-dogmatic value of the Middle Way and feels comfortable with contradictions.
主辦單位：勤美璞真文化藝術基金會、真書軒 The Jen Library
策劃：陳小曼食物設計
廚師：Theodore Hsiao
特別感謝：胭脂食品社、李惠貞
