CMP village – food design

森大工作坊:土地的社會意識 – 生物環境構造實驗坊
Forest BIG Workshop: Social Consciousness of the Land – Experimental Workshop on Biological Environment Structure

勤美學邀請 李霽 擔任森大工作營院長導師策劃場域實驗,由 郭城孟 博士導覽森林、陳小曼 擔任餐食設計,並與 張葳吳東龍 進行三天的工作營「寫生」、「知和五感」、與「聞人的嗅覺意識」。

工作營中的餐食體驗,陳小曼團隊以森大的地理紋路、文化底蘊、時令風土,從飲品、蔬食、醃製、加入當地的香草,從中提煉五行/五感,閱讀自然。

CMP Village invited Lee Chi to serve as the dean mentor of the Forest BIG Workshop to plan for field experiments. Dr. Chengmeng Kuo guided the forest, Slow Food Design (SFD) team designed the meals, along with Taffi Chang and Dragon Wu to work on a three-day workshop: “Sketching,” “Feelings and the Five Senses,” and “Senterati’s Sensory of Smell.”

For the food experience of the workshop, the SFD team extracted the five elements/five senses, and read nature from drinks, vegetables, pickling, and adding local herbs based on the geographical patterns, cultural heritage, and seasonal customs of the forest.

(1)水 / 飲 Water / Drink

東方美人茶|客家桔醬|蝶豆花
Oriental Beauty Tea|Hakka Citrus Sauce|Butterfly Pea Flower

「東方美人茶」原名「椪風茶」,是道地客家茗茶,在半發酵茶菁中屬發酵程度最重的茶品,茶芽白毫顯著。與金桔磨成的桔醬,酸涼解暑氣。蝶豆花為園區所種,花瓣含有多於其他植物十倍的花青素,除了因為鮮豔的顏色蔚為流行,在中醫角度也具有舒緩情緒效果,從炎熱的氣流當中開啟安頓的入口。

“Oriental Beauty Tea”, formerly known as “Formosa Oolong Tea”, is an authentic Hakka tea. It is the most heavily fermented tea among the semi-fermented tea, with prominent tea buds and baekho. The citrus sauce ground with kumquat is sour and cool to relieve summer heat. Butterfly pea flower is planted in the park, and its petals contain ten times more anthocyanins than other plants. In addition to being popular because of its bright colors, it also has a soothing effect in traditional Chinese medicine, opening the entrance to settle from the hot summer air.

(2)土 / 蔬 Soil / vegetables

蔬菜凍(玉米筍、四季豆、秋葵、櫛瓜、甜菜根高湯)|過貓|酸奶優格|烤花生燕麥穀物|山蘿蔔葉|紅葉酸膜
Vegetable Jelly (baby corn, green beans, okra, zucchini, beetroot stock)|fiddlehead|yogurt|roasted peanut, oats, and grains|chervils|sorrel leaves

台灣西部麓山帶有許多礫石台地,苗栗即是沉積岩地形。呼應郭城孟博士的植物學導覽課程,使用當季食材製作的蔬菜凍回應地理紋理,也以過貓象徵森林裡豐富的蕨類。鋪陳的穀物為土壤,與植物岩石,共構一道土石地景。

There are many gravel terraces in the western foothills of Taiwan, and Miaoli is a sedimentary rock terrain. Echoing Dr. Chengmeng Kuo’s guided botanical course, the vegetable jelly made with seasonal ingredients responds to geographical textures, and the fiddlehead symbolizes the rich ferns in the forest. The grains spread at the base are soil, and together with plants and rocks, they form a soil and rock landscape.

(3)金 / 麥 Gold / wheat

酸種酵母麵包|福菜豆腐乳奶油
Sourdough|focai fermented tofu butter

當代最重要的名廚之一 Massimo Bottura 出版的書籍<Bread is Gold> ,提供全球45位世界頂級廚師的食譜,倡議食物浪費議題。在2015年世博會期間,他也號召名廚響應<Food for Soul>剩食餐廳計畫,利用過剩食材創作並無償提供各地有需要的居民。

食物保存(醃漬、發酵、油封、乾燥等)從古以來都是延長食物保存時間、降低食物浪費的做法。我們將豆腐乳與發酵的客家福菜製作台式奶油,挖掘味蕾新角落。

The book, Bread is Gold, published by Massimo Bottura, one of the most important contemporary chefs, provides recipes from 45 of the world’s top chefs and advocates the issue of food waste. During the 2015 World Expo, he also called on famous chefs to respond to the “Food for Soul” leftover restaurant project, using surplus ingredients to create and provide to the residents in need without return.

Food preservation (pickling, fermenting, oil sealing, drying, etc.) has been a practice since ancient times to prolong food preservation and reduce food waste. The SFD team used fermented tofu and fermented Hakka dishes to make Taiwanese butter and to tap new corners of the taste buds.

(4)火 / 肉 Fire / meat

煙燻豬頸肉|百里香焦化鳳梨|薑漬木耳|紅甜椒是拉差醬|酪梨醬
Smoked Pork Neck|thyme caramelized pineapple|ginger pickled fungus|red bell pepper Sriracha Sauce|avocado sauce

客家的勤儉民情其來有自,因歷史遷徙的警覺與南方多山的地理條件,南方的客家人發展出自成一格的習俗,也保存了勤儉美德。二十世紀末流行的無浪費飲食風潮(From nose to tail)可說早已在客家祖先的血液中。其中「鹹酸甜」是經典的客家下水菜鳳梨豬肺炒木耳,我們轉化三元素,以火炙烤取代大火炒,保留火香,向經典見習。

Due to the vigilance of historical migration and the mountainous geographical conditions in the south, the Hakka people in the south developed their own customs and preserved the virtues of diligence and thrift. The “From nose to tail” trend that was popular in the late 20th century is said to be in the blood of Hakka ancestors. Among them, “Savoury Sour and Sweet” is a classic Hakka dish, with pineapple, pig’s lung, and fried fungus, which we transformed the three elements and used fire-roasting instead of high-heat frying to retain the aroma of fire and learn from the classics.

(5)木 / 草 Wood / grass

甜米粄|瓜果冰沙|薏米|野薑花綠茶蜂蜜
Sweet Rice Bun|gourd sorbet|barley|wild ginger green tea honey

將米磨成漿、去除水分,揉成米糰後,就可做出客家飲食中千變萬化的「粄」:菜粄、肉粄、發粄等。我們將客家花粽轉譯,以薏米作香草粄,淋上野薑花綠茶蜜,與消暑的瓜果冰沙。

After grinding the rice into pulp, removing the water, and kneading it into rice balls, the ever-changing “Pan (bun)” in the Hakka diet can be made into vegetable pan, meat pan, fat pan, etc. The SFD team transformed the Hakka flower rice dumplings, using barley as the vanilla pan, drizzling wild ginger flower green tea honey, and refreshing gourd sorbet.

day1:小黃瓜冰沙——最早的詩歌集《豳風》文中提到「七月食瓜」,西漢時期的名人張騫便是將黃瓜帶回中原種植的濫觴。「紫案佳肴,銀杯綠茶,金樽甘露,玉盤黃瓜。」黃瓜用途廣泛,從涼拌、清炒、醃製、搾汁到熱炒,乃至黃瓜花也是當代食潮中的熱門食用花。

day2:哈密瓜冰沙——被稱為瓜中之王的哈密瓜,獨有的香氣柔軟甜蜜。“忽上天山路,依然想物華。…旅思徒漂梗,歸期未及瓜。”唐朝的駱賓王從軍西域路過哈密時留下的詩,表露出未能品嘗到哈密甜瓜的遺憾。哈密瓜在咖啡風味輪中也時常作為風味描述的形容詞。作為嗅覺工作坊的序曲。

day3:西瓜冰沙——日本夏日獨有的打西瓜(スイカ割り)起源眾說紛紜,包含戰爭時代提升士氣的儀式、或是展現日本傳統拔刀武藝等。演變至今,已成日本人夏日海邊不可或缺的活動與消暑記憶。乘載著清涼,開啟下午的設計工作坊。

day1: Cucumber Sorbet – The earliest poetry collection “Bin Feng” mentioned “eat gourd in July”, and Zhang Qian, an iconic figure in the West -Han Dynasty, was the origin of bringing cucumbers back to the central plains for planting. “Dishes on a purple table, green tea in silver cups, nectar in golden bottles, and cucumbers in jade plates.” Cucumbers are widely used, ranging from cold plates, light stir-frying, pickling, juicing, to high heat stir-frying. Even cucumber flowers are popular edible flowers in the contemporary food trend.

day2: Cantaloupe Sorbet – Cantaloupe, known as the king of melons, has a unique aroma that is soft and sweet. Luo Binwang of the Tang Dynasty once left a poem when he passed by Hami in the Western Regions during the armies. He expressed his regret of not being able to taste the cantaloupe. Cantaloupe is also often used as an adjective for flavor descriptions in the coffee flavor wheel. We used it as an opening to the olfactory workshop.

day3: Watermelon Sorbet – There are many theories about the origin of the unique Japanese summer watermelon (スイカ割り). The theories include rituals to boost morale during the war or showcase traditional Japanese sword-drawing skills. It has become an indispensable activity and memory at the beach for Japanese during the summer, giving the afternoon design workshop a cool start.

串連的故事線:我們拆解了端午時節的風味線索,在蔬食中的花生、發酵奶油當中的醃福菜、主食中的豬肉、香草粄中的米,拼湊出盛夏的客家味覺地圖。

Consecutive storylines: The team disassembled the flavor clues of the Dragon Boat Festival, for example, peanuts in vegetables, pickled focai in fermented butter, pork in the main dish, and rice in the vanilla pan, to piece together a Hakka taste map in midsummer.

 

廚師:Theodore Hsiao, May Liou
特別感謝: September Cafe, Solidbean Coffee,

 

設計手稿

【森大工作坊】Forest BIG Workshop

森大,勤美學於2018年所開啟的第三座場域,希望以謙卑尊敬的態度,學習與森林相處。2020年的森大工作坊,讓自然生態領域鑽研的生態專家們成為活動中最重要的主角,扣合著勤美學致力於生活美學的精神,生態與藝術領域能相互交流、共學與合作,充滿實驗性、知識深度與體驗性。

「混種島嶼」是勤美學 森大醞釀許久的命題,借用「混種」的意義,來自於台灣豐富的生物多樣性與文化多樣性,兩者交織出這塊土地獨特的樣貌。

當我們走進一塊土地的時候,你是否也想了解,關於土壤組成產生的養分、方位導致風向影響生態物種的輸廓、地形的走向影響水流關係的緩急與範圍、日照時間配置植被系統位移以及面積?永續的架構不僅是購買標籤著有機農產食品的選擇,環境能源的議題早已覆蓋到在城市中喪失知覺和枯竭能力的人類習慣,我們必須從一種整體性的演繹發展與閱讀,更為包容地理解和認識,才能夠具有身為世界變異與調和的決策以及行動實踐者。

生態的關係牽一髪而動全身,導致人類建構文明的向度之間,產生相異的變化與差異性的想法,在森大,從台灣高位沙丘的判讀,結合設計具體實際的生活方法,套用可能性的變化模矩,透過土地本身自明性的樣貌,將隱喻式的力量轉移到另一種生命形式,讓自然世界中充滿著意義與宇宙觀要旨的維度,承載岩石與蘊藏溪流的故事,讓擁有相同靈魂的本質,拓印具有截然不同外在形體的發展。

世界層層套疊,没有一件事是獨立存在,所有想法都同時有感知和意義兩種層次。來到森大,藉由這場自然與藝術交會的工作坊,找回屬於這塊土地的脈動。

Forest BIG, the third field opened by CMP Village in 2018, hopes to learn to live with the forest with a humble and respectful attitude. In the 2020 Forest BIG workshop, ecological experts who study in the field of natural ecology become the most important protagonists in the event, in line with the spirit of CMP Village’s commitment to life aesthetics: the fields of ecology and art can communicate, learn, and cooperate; full of experimentation, depth of knowledge, and experience.

“Hybrid Island” is a proposition that CMP Village Forest BIG has been mulling over for a long time. The meaning of “hybrid” is borrowed from Taiwan’s rich biodiversity and cultural diversity. The two interweave the unique appearance of this land.

When we walk into a piece of land, would you also want to know about the nutrients produced by the soil composition, the direction of the wind that affects the profile of ecological species, the direction of the terrain affecting the pace and range of the water flow, the configuration of sunlit time affecting the displacement and area of plantation systems? Sustainable architecture is not only the choice of purchasing organic agricultural food, but the issue of environmental energy has also already covered the human habit of losing consciousness and depleting ability in the city. We must develop and read from a holistic interpretation, more inclusively. Only by understanding and knowing can we become decision-making and action practitioners to maintain harmony in the arbitrary world.

The relationships in ecology are interconnected, leading to different changes and ideas between the dimensions of human construction of civilization. In Forest BIG, interpreting from the high sand dunes, we combined and designed the practical ways of living, applied possible changing molds, through the self-evident appearance of the land, transferring the metaphorical power to another form of life. We let the natural world be filled with dimensions of meaning and the gist of cosmic view, bearing the story of rocks and hidden streams, letting souls with the same core value develop into their own distinctive forms.

The world is nested in layers; nothing exists independently; all ideas have two levels of perception and meaning. Come to Forest BIG and find the pulse of this land through this workshop where nature and art meet.